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The Gibbet Hill Grill has been rated one of Boston's Hottest New
Restaurants by the Phantom Gourmet! Click here for more information!
Gibbet Hill, a perfect mix
of elegance and ease
By DEAN JOHNSON, Sun Correspondent
From THE LOWELL
SUN
November 4, 2004
Gibbet Hill Farm is a working farm with a main entrance located on Route 40
near Groton Center. Nearly three weeks ago, a
new restaurant opened on the property in a restored barn, and you really
should go.
Our meal was a combination of good food and service in a
casually elegant setting. If it continues to show the good qualities on
display when we visited, the grill could well become one of those places
you take people from out of the area when you want to "show off"
because it's in such a dramatic setting.
Yet it also has a kind of "country farmer"
ambiance to it. That meant I was right at home wearing cords, a sportcoat,
and an open shirt. The fellow sitting next to us had a denim shirt, and he
looked quite at home, too. If in doubt, though, lean more toward better
dressed.
The long, single room is dominated by a great stone
fireplace that was filled with what seemed like dozens of lit candles. A
small bar/lounge greets you a! s you enter, and the fireplace acts as a
divider between the lounge and the dining room.
Seating is at tables and booths adorned with dark
checkered cloths topped with paper. Big, oversized lampshades cover lights
dangling from the ceiling. Barnboard, barnyard tools, smart lighting
effects, a two-tiered dining room, and an open kitchen all contribute to
the spot's comfortable allure.
Shortly after being seated, a basket of bread arrived,
accented with several pieces of agreeably mealy cornbread. The menu is a
savvy mix of "comfort food" and enticing items. So there are
chicken pot pie ($12) and meat loaf ($14.50), but there are also goat
cheese raviolis with wild mushrooms ($14) and grilled swordfish ($19).
The clam chowder ($4/$5) wasn't afraid to be a traditional
clam chowder. By that, I mean it featured a rich, full-flavored stock and
wasn't gussied up with a lot of herbs and seasonings. It also arrived hot
and is the kind of substantial starter we l! ook for in this (sigh!) chilly
weather.
A big bowl of Prince Ed ward Island
mussels ($8) featured the little guys steamed in Wachusett ale laced with
herbs and roasted garlic. The mussels were done right, and they weren't
overwhelmed by the ale. There was a good flavor balance, and a big slice of
toast invited dipping.
A daily special featuring a petite filet and two large
grilled shrimp ($25) was served with winter greens, above average wild
rice, and a roasted tomato puree.
Since Gibbet Hill Farm is a working Black Angus farm, it
would be just wrong if the beef dishes, and there are plenty of them, were
somehow sub-par.
The filet was a treat and almost literally could be sliced
with a fork. It did arrive, however, medium and not the requested
medium-rare. Our server, who took care of business all night, quickly
whisked it away and returned with not much of a detour to our dinner. The
filet was ideally done at that point, and everything else on the platter,
including the shrimp, had been replaced rather than reheate! d while the
beef was properly prepared.
The potato-topped haddock ($17.50) was a roasted piece of
fish served on a sweet corn and bacon chowder. Really, the
"chowder" was a sauce. The tender, flaky fish was not swimming in
it and a subtle smoky bacon flavor seemed to inhabit every forkful.
There are also plenty of side items to play with. The
green salad ($4) was big and fresh and included a variety of seasonal
goods. The classic macaroni and cheese table side dish is billed as a
three-cheese, butter-crusted goodie. It had taste to spare; the pasta was
prepared just right, and it was neither too gooey/cheesy nor bland.
Desserts range from bananas Foster ($5.50) to a selection
of ice creams and sorbets ($3.50). The bread pudding with bourbon caramel
sauce ($5.50) was worth every penny and would be a fine stand-alone
dessert, too.
The bottom line: This is the kind of farm everyone would
like.
The Grill at Gibbet Hill
61 Lowell Road
Groton, Ma.
Open daily at 4 p.m. Soups and appetizers $4-$ 8.50, sandwiches
$8.50-$8.75, entrees $12-$28. Full liquor license. Major credit cards
accepted. Reservations accepted. Handicap access. Call 978-448-2900 or
visit www.gibbethill.com
Food ****
Service ***1/2
Atmosphere ****
(c) 2004 The Sun (Lowell,
MA). All rights reserved.
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